Mumbai Mania

I have been sitting here staring at a blank screen for 15 minutes trying to figure out where to begin and how to describe this city. All the rumors are true. The culture shock smacks you like a ton of bricks. There is garbage...everywhere. There are people...everywhere. And YES, riding in a cab brings you closer to God. In fact, I have dubbed Mumbai the city of C's: Curry, crows, cabs, and chaos. Clever...I know. In all honesty, the first 36 hours here were difficult; but after spending five days wandering the streets, I am leaving immensely happy and utterly inspired.

Missy and I are staying in the only hostel in a city of 6 million people, so we all stick out like sore thumbs. The hostel is located at the very Southern tip of Mumbai in Colaba, right outside The Gateway of India, which is really just a big arch where people try to sell you postcards and giant balloons. I mean, who the hell wants to buy an 8 foot long balloon? NOT THIS GIRL. Every morning there are men outside our hostel who work for Bollywood (The film industry), who want foreigners to go work as extras on the movie set for 12 hours. Missy and I discussed the option and decided we will not be participating in any excursions that require us to tweeze our eyebrows. So, we have respectfully declined becoming movie stars four mornings in a row now. Now, on to the highlights:

1) Thali. This is a selection of seven different dishes, rice, bread, and pudding. Everything is refilled until you wave your waiter away. Naturally, I had this at the top of my to do list and Missy and I literally had to hold each other up after our first Thali experience. For the record, a stomach full of Thali and a money belt is not very inconspicuous.

2) Dharavi. The biggest slum in the world is only 1.75 square kilometers large and houses around 1 million people. 20% of people in Dharavi have laptops and Wifi access, and everyone here pays rent or owns their apartment. In fact, many of it's residents own property elsewhere, but choose to stay put. Missy and I took an organized tour through Dharavi with a guide and one other traveler, Uncle Kev. We were hesitant about doing the tour since neither of us wanted to exploit this way of life, but 80% of profits get reinvested into the community and it was highly recommended, so we booked it, for $8. Uncle Kev is a travel journalist for Lonely Planet and was in Mumbai to update the current guide. He received his nickname because a young girl in Dharavi asked if he was our uncle. This was an epic moment for us. He has been to over 76 countries and entertained us with stories throughout the tour. Our guide, Ganesh, is a local who lived in a slum for a year and now gives tours every single day. The four of us made quite a team and the hours spent on this tour were some of the most profound of my life. Dharavi boasts revenues of over 660 million a year. There is business EVERYWHERE in this small community and we were able to experience the day to day life of workers. Many of them are paid an equivalent of about $3 a day and many are exposed to toxic fumes. We saw piles of goat skins, stacks of sheep leather, and a bakery below ground. We caught whiffs of air that was barely breathable at times. We walked down alleyways that could fit one person from wall to wall, which housed hundreds of people. Most of all, we experienced a sense of community that cannot be replicated and a network of people who left a stamp on my heart. Ganesh introduced us to many of his friends who welcomed us with open arms. People were yelling greetings at us from all angles. School children followed us everywhere we went as they played cricket and paddle ball in the street. Women and men carried up to 50 pounds of materials in a basket on their heads. A group of young boys held a dance party in the street next to the biggest stereo I have ever seen. A Great Dane dragged a small man across the street. Dharavi is a community filled with love, hope, and unity.

3) Alaska. A 12 year old boy who told me his name was Alaska started following me one day and eventually started a conversation. After two minutes, I said: "Alaska, what are you trying to sell?" He replied: "I'm selling hash...you want?" After I told him this trip was drug free, he tried to sell me a map of the city. I told him I already had a map and he said, "But not my map!" This boy has a bright future.

4) Dabangg. This is the name of the Bollywood movie Missy and I spent $2 on and saw in Hindi...without subtitles. For three hours we watched a Brad Pitt looking Indian actor beat people up and lust over a woman. He received shrieks and cheers from the audience the first time he appeared on screen. The actresses solicited whistles from the crowd when they made an appearance. People talked throughout the entire movie and one couple got in a domestic fight that ended in a police breakup. In other words, the movies here are quite different than in North America.

5) Cabs and jaywalking. I don't know how to explain the experience of riding in a cab here, but I understand from fellow travelers that it is worse in Delhi. I don't know how this could be possible. Countless times I have grabbed Missy's arm or gasped in preparation of running someone over. You could literally arm wrestle with the person sitting in the cab next to you. Lines on the road are more of a suggestion than anything, and when there are pedestrians in the street, cabs seem to speed up. I have been close to death several times while playing in traffic.

6) Getting lost is the new itinerary. Missy and I have made some of our best discoveries while getting lost. For example, one day after leaving a tourist attraction, we took a wrong turn and stumbled upon the village of Banganga Tank. Walking around this village felt like being on a movie set. The tank is a large watering hole in the middle of an ancient village where people go to bathe, swim, and do laundry. We were lucky enough to see a human pyramid made of 6 people, and small kids doing handstands in the water in 10 pounds of clothing.

7) Missy got pooped on...third Day...by a pigeon...in the middle of Chor Bizarre, one of the most hectic places in Mumbai. Sorry mom, but we threw out your pink handkerchief.

8) Train Station. OH MY GOD. The Indian Railway employs the most people in the entire world...but none of them are in a hurry to get you anywhere. Also, to purchase a ticket online is almost impossible and I came close to tears just trying to navigate from the homepage. Luckily, there is a counter for "Internationals" at most large stations so we were able to cut the lines of 150 people and sit with other "non-locals" to wait our turn.

9) FOOOOOOOOOOOOOD. I have become a self-proclaimed FAT ASS in Mumbai. Tandoori, samosas, chicken masala, vegetable masala, biryani, dosas, idli, YOU NAME IT AND I HAVE HAD IT. I realize I have only been here five days, but keep your judgements to yourself. The best part of the experience is that you receive endless supplies of chapati (bread covered in butter) to literally mop up your food. Oh...and I have picked up a fistful of rice (with my hand), mixed it with a liquid sauce (also with my hand) and then shlopped the mixture into my mouth (WITH MY HAND). It's beautiful.

Tomorrow, Missy and I take the sleeper train to Delhi. Loving India!